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Before You Hire a Contractor: 12 Questions to Ask and Red Flags to Watch For

Hiring a contractor is one of those things where a little skepticism up front saves you a lot of money and misery later. The good ones welcome questions. The bad ones get defensive. That reaction alone tells you most of what you need to know.

I’ve hired contractors for everything from a full kitchen renovation to a simple faucet swap, and the pattern is always the same: the ones who are worth hiring make the process feel easy and transparent. The ones who aren’t make you feel like you’re being difficult for asking basic questions. You’re not being difficult. This is your house and your money.

Before You Start Calling

Know what you want. Vague projects attract vague bids, and vague bids are where contractors hide extra charges. Before you call anyone, write down exactly what the job includes: materials, scope, fixtures, timeline. “Redo the bathroom” is not a scope. “Remove and replace floor tile, install new vanity and toilet, re-grout shower walls, paint ceiling and walls” is a scope.

Set a realistic budget. Look at what similar projects cost in your area — not what a blog post from 2019 says. Material prices have changed. Labor rates have changed. Call a local building supply store and ask for ballpark material costs. Add 20 percent for waste and surprises. That’s your material budget. Labor is usually equal to or more than materials for most residential work.

Decide how you’ll manage the project. Are you checking in daily? Weekly? Are you hiring an architect or project manager to oversee? The level of oversight changes the contractor relationship. If you’re hands-off, you need a contractor you trust completely. If you’re hands-on, you need one who’s okay with you looking over their shoulder.

The 12 Questions

Ask every contractor these questions. Write down the answers. Compare them side by side.

1. Are you licensed in this state for this type of work?

Not “are you licensed?” — specifically licensed for the work you need. A general contractor’s license doesn’t cover electrical or plumbing in most states. A handyman registration isn’t the same as a contractor’s license. Ask for the license number and verify it online through your state’s licensing board. It takes two minutes.

2. Are you insured, and what does your insurance cover?

They need general liability insurance and workers’ compensation. General liability covers damage to your property — if they break a water line and flood your basement, their insurance pays, not yours. Workers’ comp covers injuries to their crew on your property. Without it, an injured worker can sue you directly.

Ask for a certificate of insurance. A legitimate contractor will have their insurance company send you one directly. If they say “I’ll bring a copy” and never do, that’s a problem.

3. Can I see recent projects similar to this one?

Not a portfolio of their best work from ten years ago. Recent, similar projects — same type of work, similar budget range, completed in the last year. Ask for addresses so you can drive by, or better yet, ask to speak with the homeowners.

4. Can I talk to three recent references?

Not references they hand-picked from 2018. Three homeowners they worked for in the last six months. When you call, ask: Did they start on time? Did they finish on time? Was the final price close to the bid? Would you hire them again? That last question is the only one that really matters.

5. Who will actually be at my house doing the work?

The person you’re talking to might be the sales guy or the owner who shows up for the estimate and then disappears. Find out who the crew is. Are they employees or subcontractors? If subcontractors, are they licensed and insured? The people in your house matter more than the person who sold you the job.

6. What’s the payment schedule?

This is where the scams happen. The standard payment schedule for residential work is: a deposit of 10 to 30 percent to cover materials, then progress payments as work is completed, with the final payment due after the job passes inspection and you’ve signed off.

Never pay the full amount up front. Never pay more than 50 percent before the work is at least halfway done. A contractor who wants all the money before they start is telling you everything you need to know.

7. Will you pull the permits?

If the work requires a building permit — and most structural, electrical, and plumbing work does — the contractor should pull it. Not you. The person who pulls the permit is responsible for the work meeting code. If you pull it, you’re on the hook.

If a contractor says “we don’t need a permit for that” and you’re not sure, call your local building department and ask. It’s a free phone call that can save you from having to rip out non-compliant work later.

8. What’s the timeline, and what would delay it?

Every contractor will give you a timeline. Ask what would make it slip. Material delays? Subcontractor scheduling? Weather? A contractor who says “no problems, two weeks guaranteed” is either lying or inexperienced. One who says “two weeks if the tile ships on time, three if it doesn’t” is being honest.

9. How do you handle change orders?

A change order is any change to the original scope — you add something, remove something, or discover something unexpected behind a wall. Change orders should be documented in writing with a new price before the work is done, not after. If a contractor starts extra work without a written change order and then adds it to the bill, you have no way to dispute it.

10. What warranty do you provide on your work?

A one-year warranty on workmanship is standard. Some offer two. Material warranties come from the manufacturer and are separate. Get the warranty in writing. A verbal warranty isn’t worth the breath it took to say it.

11. How do you handle cleanup and daily site condition?

Do they clean up at the end of each day? Cover furniture? Keep dust contained? If you’re living in the house during the work — which most people are — daily cleanup matters. A job site that’s a disaster every evening makes your life miserable for weeks.

12. Can I see a written contract?

The contract should include: scope of work, materials to be used (with brands and model numbers where applicable), payment schedule, timeline, warranty terms, permit responsibility, and change order process. If it’s not in the contract, it doesn’t exist.

Red Flags — Walk Away From These

Any one of these is reason to find a different contractor. You don’t need to be polite about it.

After You Hire

Even with the right contractor, stay engaged:

The best contractor relationship is one where both sides feel respected and the work speaks for itself. Ask the questions, check the references, read the contract, and trust your gut. If something feels off, it probably is.

Pro Tips

Tip: Get at least three bids for any job over $2,000. Not to pick the cheapest — to understand the range. If one bid is dramatically lower than the other two, something is wrong: they misunderstood the scope, they’re planning to cut corners, or they’ll hit you with change orders later. The right bid is usually in the middle.

Caution: Never hire a contractor who knocks on your door offering to fix your roof, driveway, or gutters. Legitimate contractors don’t canvass neighborhoods. Door-to-door home repair solicitation is the most common contractor scam in the US, and it spikes after every major storm. Say no and close the door.

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