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Power Outage Checklist: What to Do When You Lose Electricity

Quick AnswerWhen the power goes out, first check whether it's just your house or the whole block. Unplug TVs, computers, and consoles before the restoration surge hits. Keep the fridge and freezer shut — a full fridge holds about 4 hours — ration your phone battery, and stay at least 30 feet from any downed line.
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The lights flicker once, then everything goes dark and quiet. No hum from the fridge. No fan. No Wi-Fi. Most people's first instinct is to grab their phone and start complaining. But the first five minutes of an outage matter — especially if you don't know whether it's just your house or the whole block.

I've been through multi-day outages during ice storms in the Midwest and quick summer brownouts where the power came back in 20 minutes. The difference between "mildly inconvenient" and "genuinely miserable" comes down to a few smart moves right at the start. And the smartest move happens earlier still: if summer storms are your outage season, our summer storm preparation checklist covers the work you do before the sky turns.

First, Figure Out Whether It's Just You

Before anything else, check the scope. Look out the window. Are the streetlights on? Your neighbors' porch lights? If everyone else has power and you don't, go to your main electrical panel. A tripped breaker sits halfway between ON and OFF. Flip it fully to OFF, then back to ON. If it trips again immediately, there's a short somewhere — leave it off and call an electrician.

If the whole block is dark, it's a utility outage. Skip the panel and move on.

Unplug the Electronics Before the Power Comes Back

When power returns, it can return with a voltage spike — and that spike can fry circuit boards in TVs, computers, gaming consoles, anything with a microchip. Walk the house and unplug the vulnerable stuff now, while there's nothing to watch anyway.

Unplug These First
  • TVs and home theater equipment. Big screens and receivers are the most expensive boards in most rooms.
  • Desktop computers and monitors. A surge doesn't care that you were mid-document.
  • Laptops that don't need charging. If the battery's healthy, it can sit this out unplugged.
  • Gaming consoles. Small boxes, costly boards.
  • Small kitchen appliances with digital displays. Touchpads and clocks mean circuit boards inside.

Leave one lamp or light switch in the ON position so you'll know when power returns — and make sure everyone in the house knows which one it is.

Light the House Without Candles

Flashlights, headlamps, and battery-powered lanterns only. Don't light candles unless you're actively awake and in the same room. Every year, candles start fires during outages because someone set one on an uneven surface, a kid knocked it over, or someone fell asleep with it burning.

Keep a flashlight in the same spot in every room — a drawer near the door, or on the nightstand — so you can find it by feel in the dark. I stash a cheap LED flashlight in every bedroom and the kitchen. They cost $3 each and I've never regretted it.

Leave the Fridge and Freezer Shut

Your refrigerator is a cooler now. Every opening dumps cold air and shortens the clock:

ApplianceStays cold, door shut
Refrigerator, fullAbout 4 hours
Refrigerator, half-fullAbout 2 hours
Freezer, full24 to 48 hours if packed

Grab what you need for the next few hours — water, snacks, something for the kids — in one quick trip, then shut it. Tape the door with painter's tape as a reminder for the whole house to stay out. If the outage looks like it will pass 4 hours, move the most valuable perishables — milk, meat, leftovers — into a cooler with ice packs.

Treat Your Phone Battery Like Cash

Your phone is now your only link to outage updates, emergency alerts, and the outside world. Spend its battery like it matters.

Stretch the Battery
  • Switch to low-power mode immediately. Not at 20 percent — now.
  • Drop the screen brightness. The display is the biggest drain you control.
  • Turn off Wi-Fi and Bluetooth. The towers may be struggling anyway; don't burn power searching for them.
  • Close every app you don't need. Background refresh is a luxury for powered houses.
  • Stop scrolling social media. It tells you nothing your neighbors don't know.

A battery-powered or hand-crank weather radio is the backup that doesn't compete with your phone. And sign up for your utility's outage text alerts ahead of time — most providers let you text OUT to a short code and send restoration estimates automatically. You want that set up before you need it.

If You Run a Generator, Keep It Outside

A generator belongs outdoors, full stop. Never run one in a garage, even with the door open. Carbon monoxide is odorless, and a generator makes a lot of it. Point the exhaust away from windows and doors, and never plug it into a wall outlet to backfeed the house — that sends power out onto the lines, where it can injure repair crews. Feeding your panel takes a transfer switch an electrician installs — arranged before storm season, not during it. Our generator safety checklist pulls the placement, fueling, and cool-down rules into one page you can tape inside the garage door.

Know When It's Time to Leave

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Most outages are annoying but safe. A few situations mean pack up and go:

Leave If Any of These Are True
  • It's below freezing and you have no secondary heat source. Pipes and people both have limits.
  • Someone in the house relies on powered medical equipment. Battery backups are measured in hours, not days.
  • The outage is expected to last more than 24 hours in extreme heat. Heat becomes a health problem fast.
  • You smell gas or see sparks anywhere. That's not an outage problem anymore — treat smoke, sparks, or burning smells as electrical warning signs that mean immediate danger, and get out.

If you stay, close doors to unused rooms to hold heat or cool air in the main living area, and gather everyone in one room. Body heat helps in winter.

Downed Lines: 30 Feet, No Exceptions

If you see a power line down — on the street, on a fence, across a tree branch, in a puddle — stay at least 30 feet away. Don't walk near it. Don't drive over it. Don't try to move it with a stick or a broom. A downed line can energize the ground around it; you don't have to touch the wire to be electrocuted.

A Quiet Line Is Not a Safe LineNo sparks, no buzzing, no movement — none of that means the line is dead. Lines can re-energize without warning when the utility switches circuits during repairs. Treat every downed line as live, every time.

Call 911. Then call your utility's emergency line. Then stand guard from a safe distance to warn anyone else who wanders near. This is the one item where you stop being a homeowner and let professionals handle everything.

The Shoebox Kit for Next Time

You don't need a bunker — just a shoebox-sized kit, assembled on a calm weekend:

Keep These Together
  • LED flashlight with spare batteries. One per bedroom and kitchen beats one expensive one somewhere.
  • Power bank, charged to 100%. Enough to charge your phone twice — top it off every few months.
  • Battery-powered radio. Outage news that doesn't touch your phone battery.
  • A few gallons of drinking water. Wells and some municipal systems need power too.
  • Non-perishable snacks. Food you can eat without cooking — the stove may be out too.
  • First aid kit. Dark houses and hurried people are a bad combination.
  • Printed list of emergency phone numbers. Paper works at 0 percent battery.

The power bank is the one people always forget. Charge it fully, store it with the flashlight, and set a calendar reminder to recharge it every three months. A dead power bank during an outage is just a paperweight. (For a fuller kit list, see the emergency home repair kit checklist.)

Mistakes That Make an Outage Worse

Four Mistakes to Skip
  • Opening the fridge "just to check." Every look costs cold air you can't get back.
  • Candles left burning alone. That's how outages turn into house fires.
  • Spending the phone battery in the first hour. On a long outage, it's your news and your way to call for help.
  • Assuming a silent downed line is dead. No sparks means nothing. Thirty feet, always.

The Bottom Line

An outage rewards the first five minutes and punishes improvisation after dark. Check the scope, unplug electronics, seal the fridge, ration the phone, and give downed lines a wide berth. Do those things and most outages shrink to an inconvenience with a story attached.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does food keep in the fridge during a power outage?

About 4 hours in a full refrigerator with the door shut, and roughly 2 hours in a half-full one. A full freezer holds 24 to 48 hours. Past those windows, perishables like milk, meat, and leftovers should go — when in doubt, throw it out.

Should I unplug everything during a power outage?

Unplug the electronics with circuit boards: TVs, computers, gaming consoles, and small appliances with digital displays. Those are what a restoration surge can damage. Leave one lamp switched on so you'll know the moment power returns; the fridge and freezer stay plugged in and shut.

How far should I stay from a downed power line?

At least 30 feet. A downed line can energize the ground, fences, and puddles around it, so you can be hurt without touching the wire. Don't drive over one and don't move it with anything. Call 911, then your utility's emergency line.

When should I leave my home during a power outage?

Leave if it's below freezing and you have no backup heat, if anyone depends on powered medical equipment, if extreme heat is expected to last more than 24 hours, or if you smell gas or see sparks. Otherwise, most outages are safe to ride out.

How do I find out when the power will come back?

Your utility's outage text alerts and outage map are the fastest source — sign up before storm season, since many providers let you text OUT to a short code for automatic restoration estimates. A battery or hand-crank radio covers you if cell service gets spotty.

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UsefulHow Editorial Team
We test home repairs in real houses and write the guides we wish we'd had. Every guide is reviewed against manufacturer instructions and current building codes.