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Before You Sign: 11 Things to Check in a Contractor Contract

Quick AnswerA solid home improvement contract names the exact scope, materials, and total price, ties payments to finished stages, and puts change orders, completion dates, warranty terms, and lien waivers in writing. If a clause is missing, it's missing when you need it — during a dispute. Check these 11 items before you sign anything.
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Most contract disputes aren't about the work. They're about what each side thought the deal was. The homeowner remembers a promise about finishing by Thanksgiving. The contractor remembers saying "around then, if the cabinets land." A written contract settles that kind of argument in about thirty seconds — but only if the right clauses are in it.

You don't need a lawyer to read a residential contract. You need a checklist and the willingness to slow down for twenty minutes. Here are the 11 items that decide how a job ends when something goes wrong.

The 11-Point Contract Check

Check Every One Before You Sign
  • 1. Full names, addresses, and license number. The contract should name the company, its physical address, and the contractor's license number. A contract that lists only a cell phone and a first name is a document you can't enforce against anyone.
  • 2. An exact scope of work. What gets removed, built, installed, and left alone — room by room. "Remodel bathroom" is not a scope. Tile brand, fixture models, and who supplies them belong here too.
  • 3. A fixed total price, or a stated pricing method. Either a firm number for the defined scope, or an honest time-and-materials rate with a not-to-exceed cap. Open-ended pricing with no cap invites an open-ended bill.
  • 4. A payment schedule tied to milestones. Each payment should follow finished, verifiable work — demolition done, rough-in passed, cabinets set. Dates alone don't protect you; stages do.
  • 5. A change-order clause. No extra or altered work starts without a written change order stating the new price and any schedule change, signed by both sides before the work begins.
  • 6. Start and completion dates, with a delay clause. Real contracts allow for weather and back-ordered materials. What you want is a stated completion window plus what happens if it slips badly — including your right to terminate after a long, unexplained delay.
  • 7. Permits and inspections named. The contractor pulls the permits, in the contractor's name, and the contract says so. Work that needs inspection shouldn't be covered up before it passes.
  • 8. A lien waiver provision. At final payment, the contractor provides a signed waiver confirming suppliers and subcontractors have been paid. Our explainer on what a lien waiver is covers the difference between conditional and unconditional waivers.
  • 9. Warranty terms in writing. One year on workmanship is the residential standard; some contractors offer two. The contract should say what the warranty covers, what it excludes, and how you make a claim.
  • 10. Cleanup, debris, and damage responsibility. Who hauls the old cabinets away, who protects floors and landscaping, and who pays if a ladder goes through a window. Small lines, real money.
  • 11. A cancellation and dispute clause. How either side can end the contract, what you owe if you cancel mid-job, and how disputes get resolved — mediation, arbitration, or court. In many states you also get a three-day right to cancel after signing; the contract should state it.

The Clauses That Decide Disputes

Four of those eleven do most of the work in practice. The scope is first, because nearly every argument is secretly a scope argument: was the subfloor included, were the fixtures mid-grade or builder-grade, did "paint the room" include the ceiling? If it isn't written, you'll negotiate it later at the worst possible moment.

The payment schedule is second, and it deserves its own scrutiny. A deposit of 10–30% to start is common on larger jobs; the danger sign is money running ahead of work. The guide to how much to pay a contractor upfront breaks down normal deposit ranges by job size, including the states that cap deposits by law. Read them together: the contract is where the schedule stops being advice and becomes enforceable.

Change orders are third. Remodels genuinely do uncover surprises — rotted framing, wiring that predates modern code — so changes aren't a red flag by themselves. Unpriced changes are. A written change order signed before the extra work starts protects the contractor too, which is why good ones insist on them.

And the lien waiver is the one homeowners skip until it hurts. In many states, a supplier or subcontractor the contractor failed to pay can place a lien on your house — even though you paid the contractor in full. Collecting waivers as payments are made, and a final unconditional waiver with the last check, closes that door.

Verbal Promises Don't SurviveIf a contractor says "we'll take care of that" about anything that matters — a finish date for a family event, a specific brand of fixture, fixing the drywall they damage — ask for it in the contract or in an email you both keep. In a dispute, the written version wins over everyone's memory, including yours.

What a Payment Schedule Should Look Like

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StageTypical shareTrigger
Deposit10–30%Signing, or delivery of special-order materials
Progress payment 125–30%Demolition complete, rough-in passed inspection
Progress payment 225–30%Cabinets, tile, and fixtures installed
Final payment10–15% held backPunch list finished, final walkthrough signed off, lien waiver in hand

The final holdback is the clause homeowners most often give away and most often miss. Money held until the end is what brings a crew back to fix the sticking door and the paint drip. Once the last check clears, your small fixes compete with their next paying job.

Before the Last Signature

Run the finished paperwork past two final checks. First, walk the job with the contract in hand at the end — the same habit as a remodel final walkthrough, comparing each line of scope against what's actually in the room. Second, confirm the basics most people skip: every page initialed, both signatures dated, a copy in your hands before work starts, and no blank spaces anywhere. A blank line in a signed contract is an invitation for someone else to fill it in later.

Pro TipTake a photo of the signed contract with your phone before the contractor leaves the table, then email it to yourself. Paper copies get lost in remodel chaos; a dated photo in your inbox doesn't.

Frequently Asked Questions

What should be in a home improvement contract?

At minimum: the parties and license number, an exact scope with materials named, a total price or capped pricing method, a milestone payment schedule, a written change-order rule, start and completion dates, permit responsibility, lien waiver terms, a written warranty, cleanup duties, and a cancellation and dispute clause.

Is it normal for a contractor contract to have no completion date?

It's common on small jobs, but for anything over a few thousand dollars you want at least a stated window with a delay clause. A job with no dates at all can drift for months with no contractual remedy for you.

What is a change order, and why does it need to be signed?

A change order is a written amendment covering work outside the original scope, with its price and any schedule impact. Signing before the extra work starts means both sides agreed to the cost while it could still be declined — the single best protection against surprise bills.

Can I cancel a home improvement contract after signing?

Often, yes. Federal rules and many state laws give homeowners a three-business-day right to cancel contracts signed at home, and most contracts include their own cancellation terms beyond that window. Check the clause in your contract and your state's rules — cancelling in writing, promptly, is what preserves your options.

Should I have a lawyer review a contractor contract?

For a routine job under roughly $10,000, most homeowners review it themselves with a checklist like this one. For large remodels, structural work, or any contract with an arbitration clause you're unsure about, a one-hour attorney review is cheap insurance relative to the project cost.

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We test home repairs in real houses and write the guides we wish we'd had. Every guide is reviewed against manufacturer instructions and current building codes.
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