Outdoor furniture lives in sun, rain, pollen, and bird droppings, and it shows it by June. The cleaning is simple — soap, water, and the right approach for each material — but the wrong approach ruins the furniture: a pressure washer shreds wicker, chlorine bleach strips colored cushions, and a wire brush scars wood. Clean it once in spring and once before you store it, and the furniture lasts years longer. It sits next to the grill most of the summer, and the same care that keeps a grill alive keeps the furniture alive — the gas grill cleaning guide covers the other half of the patio.
| Material | How to clean it | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Plastic / resin | Soapy water and a soft brush | Abrasive pads, which scratch the surface |
| Metal (aluminum, steel) | Soapy water, rinse, dry fully | Steel wool, which rusts the finish |
| Wood / teak | Brush along the grain with soapy water, let dry | Pressure washing, which raises the grain |
| Wicker / rattan | Damp cloth and a soft brush in the weave | Pressure washing, which shreds the fibers |
| Fabric cushions | Remove covers, wash per the label, air dry | Chlorine bleach on colored fabric |
The table is the whole job in short form. If you know the material, you know the method — and the one thing not to do to it.
Sweep off the debris. Brush the leaves, pollen, and bird droppings off every surface before you wash anything. Washing over dry debris grinds it into the finish.
Wash the frames. Wash plastic and metal frames with warm soapy water and a soft brush or cloth, then rinse. For white plastic that has yellowed, a paste of baking soda and water lightens it — scrub gently and rinse.
Scrub the wood. Scrub wood furniture with a soft brush and soapy water, always along the grain, then rinse and let it dry in the sun. Teak can be oiled after it dries if you want the warm color back — oil is optional, drying is not.
Wipe the wicker. Wipe wicker and rattan with a damp cloth, and use a soft brush to get into the weave. Wicker holds water in the weave, so let it dry completely in the sun before you sit on it or cover it.
Wash the cushions. Take the covers off and wash them per the label — most are machine washable on gentle. Air dry them; never put foam inserts in the dryer. For a cushion that cannot be removed, scrub it with soapy water and rinse with a hose.
Dry and protect. Let everything dry in the sun, then put the covers on or move the furniture under shelter. Storing wet furniture grows mildew over the winter, and mildew is harder to remove than the dirt you just cleaned.
Mildew on cushions comes off with vinegar water or oxygen bleach — never chlorine bleach on colored fabric, which strips the color along with the mildew. Fading is a different problem: it is the sun, not dirt, and no cleaner fixes it. Covers and winter storage are the only real protection against fading. If the choice is between gas and charcoal for the grill next to the furniture, the gas vs charcoal comparison covers the trade-offs.
Never pressure wash wicker, rattan, or wood furniture — the jet shreds fibers, raises the grain, and strips finishes. The pressure washer safety guide covers what the machine is for, and furniture is not on the list. Never use chlorine bleach on colored cushions. Never store furniture wet. And never use a wire brush on any outdoor furniture — it scars every material on the table above.
Once in spring before the season starts, and once before you store it for winter. Wipe up bird droppings when they happen — they stain if they bake in the sun.
Not wicker, rattan, or wood — the jet shreds and strips them. Plastic and metal can take a wide nozzle at low pressure, but soapy water and a brush are safer and usually enough.
Scrub with vinegar water or oxygen bleach, rinse, and dry in the sun. Never use chlorine bleach on colored fabric. If the mildew is inside the foam, the cushion is usually done.
Yes, when it is not in use — covers block sun, rain, and bird droppings. But only cover dry furniture: a cover over wet furniture traps the moisture and grows mildew underneath.